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Thread: fix photo help

  1. #1
    Wanta-be MOD richomundo's Avatar
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    fix photo help

    I'm getting into concert photography, and I just shot a friends concert this friday.

    I've got a nikon d100 with a 50mm f1.4 lens.

    The lighting was absolute shit, it was setup on the queen mary, which is a run down cruise ship permanently docked in long beach. The stage was lit with a red gelled fresnelle, a blue gelled fresnelle, and 2 flourescent lights up in the ceiling.

    I shot ISO 800, f1.8 and spot metered my shots. What i'm having trouble with is the red light completely overpowers everything the pictures have to offer.

    I shot in raw, and I'm using adobe lightroom

    I need some suggestions as to how I can make them not so red.

    or what can I do next time to avoid this.

    thanks





    eventually.

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    I myself dont think they look too bad. But thats only me.

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    I'm assuming this is how the light actually was?

    You might try adjusting the white balance and tint to see if you get results you like better. Concert lighting is always bad - there's often little you can do to improve it.
    As if the way one fell down mattered...

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    Holy shit I rule! mknawabi's Avatar
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    open up in photoshop and auto level it. or use your own levels.

    harris0n sux

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    Holy shit I rule! bigmak's Avatar
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    I'd shoot with a cooling filter so that you pull the red highlights down.

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...arch&Q=*&bhs=t

    And then I'd mess with levels.
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    Wanta-be MOD richomundo's Avatar
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    Originally posted by mknawabi
    open up in photoshop and auto level it. or use your own levels.
    The only channel with light information is the red channel. i've been playing with the levels, and they just arent coming out correctly. Autolevels leaves them near exactly the same.


    thanks bigmak, i'll pick one up from samy's and try again next concert
    eventually.

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    Holy shit I rule! bigmak's Avatar
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    Well, look at the picture--it's all dark or it's red. Of course your data is gonna be in the red channel.

    You can't create data when it isn't there. The strong red light caused you to underexpose the other channels.

    If you get a cooling filter like I linked to, you'd bring down the red channel tremendously. You'd then be able to get more data in the other colors.
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    Wanta-be MOD richomundo's Avatar
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    Originally posted by bigmak
    Well, look at the picture--it's all dark or it's red. Of course your data is gonna be in the red channel.

    You can't create data when it isn't there. The strong red light caused you to underexpose the other channels.

    If you get a cooling filter like I linked to, you'd bring down the red channel tremendously. You'd then be able to get more data in the other colors.
    I assume there are also warming filters etc. If a red light is the only light source, does using the cooling filter mean i'll be shooting in near darkness? or does it simply compensate for the tone?
    eventually.

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    Holy shit I rule! bigmak's Avatar
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    It will reduce the intensity of the red light and will reduce the overall exposure

    I used a cooling filter in CS3 so you can see the change in histograms. Note how the histograms match up after the filter (the vertical line)--that means the channels are equally exposed.





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    You can also adjust the color temperature down, in effect using a cooling filter.
    As if the way one fell down mattered...

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    Holy shit I rule! bigmak's Avatar
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    True, but will it be as effective to do an electronic tweak as an actual change such as by using a filter?

    I have zero experience with adjusting color temperatures.
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    If the images don't have to be in color I would convert them to B&W. Its the easy answer but I think concerts usually look great in B&W.


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    Originally posted by bigmak
    True, but will it be as effective to do an electronic tweak as an actual change such as by using a filter?

    I have zero experience with adjusting color temperatures.
    The ultimate answer is no, but the better answer is "it depends".

    Any color filter you place on your camera is going to reduce the amount of data getting to the sensor, almost by definition. As you've pointed out, it will equalize the channels a bit, but you will have to expose longer in order to get something that's not underexposed on all the channels - which frankly is a huge problem at most concerts. The camera's WB setting does affect even the RAW files - in other words your picture will look better if the camera gets the WB setting right than if you have to adjust it in RAW. As long as the camera is fairly close, you'll be fine, but if it's way off then you'll have problems. Remember that the camera itself is constantly adjusting the WB - I've seen my camera set the WB at ~2200, and also seen it set it at ~8000 - a huge range. We never think about that with digital cameras, but 80A filters were the order of the day when you were shooting film indoors - they make a huge difference. Thankfully our cameras take care of most of that now, and do a fairly good job.

    What I would suggest more than using a filter would be using a white balance preset on the camera. Again, though, the real issue here is "Did the light actually look like that"? If it did, then you're going to be fighting a losing battle no matter what you do.
    As if the way one fell down mattered...

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    Not to step on Jackson but I would not bother using custom white balance on your camera, reason being is because the white balance at a concert is usually always going to change because most concerts use dynamic lighting.

    So what do you do? Shoot in raw and use the white balance tool on each picture. EZ as pie, you can do 100 pictures in like 10 mins if you have lightroom built into your workflow.

    GL bro.
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    Originally posted by Klael24
    Not to step on Jackson but I would not bother using custom white balance on your camera, reason being is because the white balance at a concert is usually always going to change because most concerts use dynamic lighting.

    So what do you do? Shoot in raw and use the white balance tool on each picture. EZ as pie, you can do 100 pictures in like 10 mins if you have lightroom built into your workflow.

    GL bro.
    No, you bring up a fair point. You can (generally) tell the camera to bias its white balance readings if it's getting it consistently wrong, however (at least with Nikon's).

    The problem with the method you're describing is that if the camera gets it too wrong, you'll lose quality, even in RAW. Try pushing your white balance far off its point and you'll notice a noticeable increase in noise and artifacts.

    Cliff's notes, it's important to get it right, but not always possible. Use the RAW WB where you must, but if you can, try to use a WB that's close to most of what you're seeing. Obviously if lights are going crazy all over the place, you're going to have problems, but that's just life.
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    Wanta-be MOD richomundo's Avatar
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    thank you guys for your input. Next concert this friday (diff venue) I'm gonna pick up some filters and open up a stop (1.4) and move back to 1/60 which I think will still freeze action.
    eventually.

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    Originally posted by richomundo
    thank you guys for your input. Next concert this friday (diff venue) I'm gonna pick up some filters and open up a stop (1.4) and move back to 1/60 which I think will still freeze action.
    I wouldn't drop to 1.4. I think you're going to have severe depth of field issues, but to each his own.

    You still have yet to answer the question of whether the light was actually like that or not.
    As if the way one fell down mattered...

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    Holy shit I rule! bigmak's Avatar
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    Originally posted by richomundo
    The stage was lit with a red gelled fresnelle, a blue gelled fresnelle, and 2 flourescent lights up in the ceiling.
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    Wanta-be MOD richomundo's Avatar
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    Originally posted by jackson
    I wouldn't drop to 1.4. I think you're going to have severe depth of field issues, but to each his own.

    You still have yet to answer the question of whether the light was actually like that or not.
    Yes. It was like that. The red fresnelle completely overpowered the flourescent house lights they left on and the blue gelled fresnelle.
    eventually.

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    Originally posted by richomundo
    Yes. It was like that. The red fresnelle completely overpowered the flourescent house lights they left on and the blue gelled fresnelle.
    Bigmak - I realize he wrote that, but if red was 100% and blue and green were 10%, then obviously you're going to get what he got.

    If that's what it looked like, there is probably only a limited amount you can do in order to make it more neutral - that's the beast when you're dealing with concert lighting.
    As if the way one fell down mattered...

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